What Should I Put Down My Outhouse Hole? A Comprehensive Guide for You, My Friend

Hey there! As an expert in home renovations with over 10 years of experience, I‘m excited to provide you with this comprehensive guide to properly maintaining your outhouse hole. A well-cared-for outhouse hole is essential for safely processing waste on your property. Follow these tips and you‘ll keep your outdoor bathroom functioning properly for years to come.

Why Do Outhouses Use Holes?

Outhouses provide a simple way to dispose of human waste without indoor plumbing. But how exactly do they work? Let‘s quickly cover the basics:

  • An outhouse hole contains and isolates waste in one location until it can naturally decompose.

  • The dry, oxygen-rich hole environment facilitates aerobic decomposition by soil microbes.

  • By containing waste underground, outhouses prevent contamination of water and environment.

  • Ventilation provides fresh air and dissipates gases and odors.

So in short, the outhouse hole does the crucial job of holding and breaking down waste through natural biological processes.

Determining Depth – How Deep Should You Dig?

Choosing the right depth for your outhouse hole is critical. A general guideline is to make your hole 4-6 feet deep, but several factors should determine the best depth:

Soil Conditions

  • Clay soil – Clay is prone to shifting and collapse. A shallower 3-4 foot depth is safer for clay soils.

  • Sandy or gravel soil – These soils drain too quickly. Dig deeper, to 6 feet or more, until you reach an impermeable layer.

  • Loam soil – Loamy soils with a mix of silt, sand and clay are ideal. Aim for 4-6 feet.

Water Table Levels

  • The bottom of the hole should be at least 2 feet above the highest water table level at your location. Otherwise, waste can contaminate groundwater.

Frost Line Depth

  • In northern climates, the hole must extend below the frost line or risk frost heave damage. This chart shows average frost depths:
State Frost Line Depth
Alaska 4-8 feet
Maine 3-5 feet
Minnesota 3-6 feet
Wisconsin 3-5 feet

Local Regulations

  • Most counties dictate legal hole depth minimums and setbacks from water sources and property lines. Check with your health department to be sure you adhere to local codes.

Frequency of Use

  • The more people using your outhouse, the faster waste will accumulate. For regular use, a deeper 6 foot hole gives you more capacity before emptying is needed.

Difficulty of Digging

  • Holes deeper than 4 feet usually require power equipment like an auger or backhoe to dig and empty. Evaluate your ability to dig and empty a deeper hole manually.

So inspect your specific soil and site, research frost depth, check regulations, and estimate use frequency and difficulty before choosing the right depth for your outhouse hole.

Lining Your Outhouse Hole

Lining your outhouse hole is an optional additional protective measure. Here are the pros and cons of installing a hole liner:

Benefits of Lining

  • Strengthens hole walls and prevents cave-ins, especially in sandy or wet soils.

  • Stops liquid waste from leaking into surrounding soil.

  • Allows for easier cleaning when pumping out contents of full holes.

  • Concrete lining reduces soil erosion from digging out waste.

Disadvantages of Lining

  • Concrete is permanent and difficult to remove if relocating outhouse.

  • Plastic and fiberglass liners can tear, rip, or have seams come apart.

  • Adding a liner increases overall project cost and work time.

  • Unnecessary in natural stable soils or when relocating outhouse often.

Liner Material Options

If you do opt to line your outhouse hole, here are some lining choices:

  • Poured concrete – Sturdy and long-lasting but requires framing and is permanent.

  • Concrete masonry units – Cinder blocks are easy to install but have rough edges that can catch waste.

  • Plastic liners – Lightweight polyethylene or PVC that‘s easy to install. Durability varies.

  • Fiberglass – Glass fiber liners are lightweight but expensive. Joints prone to leaking.

Make sure any seams or connections in manufactured liners are well-sealed. And choose liners rated for underground use.

Helpful Additives for Decomposition

The microorganisms already present in soil will gradually break down the organic waste deposited into your outhouse hole. However, you can introduce additives to help speed up decomposition and reduce odors:

Wood Ash

Wood ash from stoves or fireplaces provides lime that raises the pH, improves microbial growth, and controls odor.

  • Use about 1-2 cups per week scattered lightly over deposits.

Garden Lime

Pure calcium carbonate neutralizes acidity and curbs odors.

  • Avoid harsh quicklime. Use gentler agricultural lime instead.

  • Apply 1-2 cups weekly.

Rotted Organic Material

Add carbon-rich sources like leaves, straw, or sawdust to provide organisms nutrients to thrive.

  • Scatter over waste weekly. Provides food for decomposers.

  • Absorbs excess moisture that can slow decomposition and make odors worse.

Compost or Manure

Nutrient-rich compost introduces beneficial microbes already adapted to breaking down waste.

  • Apply thin layers over deposits.

  • Boosts microbial activity.

With some simple, natural additives like these, you can optimize the waste decomposition happening in your outhouse hole.

Ventilating Your Outhouse Hole

Proper ventilation is crucial for:

  • Removing foul odors from the outhouse structure

  • Preventing harmful buildup of gases like methane and hydrogen sulfide

  • Drawing oxygen into the hole to facilitate aerobic decomposition

  • Balancing humidity and preventing mold

To ventilate your outhouse hole:

  • Install vent pipe from hole through outhouse roof to allow airflow

  • Use fly screen over vent openings to block insects but allow air

  • Face structure opening away from prevailing winds

  • Keep venting clear of blockages like plants or debris

  • Use a supplemental fan if natural draft isn‘t cutting odors

Ensuring adequate ventilation keeps your outhouse hole decomposition working safely and efficiently.

Emptying or Moving Filled Outhouse Holes

When your outhouse hole fills to around 2 feet from the surface, it‘s time to empty the contents or move your outhouse. You have three main options:

Professionally Pump Out Waste

  • Contact septic tank pumper service to vacuum out hole contents.

  • Waste is disposed of at approved treatment facility.

  • This meets health department requirements in most areas.

Temporarily Extend Hole Lifespan

  • If pumping isn‘t immediately possible, add absorbent bulking material like sawdust, lime, or wood chips to gain a few months as you arrange pumping.

  • Cover full hole with tarp then refill with soil. Mark clearly.

Allow Natural Composting

  • In rural areas, you may be able to move the outhouse to a new hole and let the full hole compost.

  • Leave minimum 12 months before manually emptying old hole to use again.

Check your local regulations, as waste disposal rules vary widely based on municipality.

Preventing Well Water Contamination

Improperly located outhouse holes pose a risk of contaminating drinking water wells with bacteria, viruses, and nitrates from waste. Here‘s how to prevent well water pollution:

  • Locate hole downhill and downgradient from any wells, with a minimum separation of 100 feet. But farther is better!

  • According to the EPA, a separation of at least 300 feet is ideal between outhouse hole and well.

  • Dig hole deep enough to reach impermeable soil layer above groundwater level.

  • Using an impervious liner blocks liquid from leaching into groundwater.

  • Pump out hole regularly to prevent overflowing of contents.

  • If well sampling indicates contamination, shock chlorinate the well to kill bacteria.

Proper outhouse siting and maintenance ensures your waste doesn‘t end up in your drinking water.

Reviewing Local Requirements

Most counties and towns regulate outhouses and outhouse holes to varying degrees. Be sure to:

  • Check with your county health department about specific outhouse codes like:

    • Minimum hole depth

    • Required setback distances from wells, waterways, property lines

    • Need for permits or registration

  • Contact your municipal zoning office regarding rules like:

    • Allowed locations on property

    • Maximum outhouse height

    • Required screening from roads or neighbors

  • Obtain necessary permits for outhouse construction and hole digging.

Following local health, zoning, and permitting rules will keep your DIY outhouse project complaint-free!

Staying Safe Around Outhouse Holes

While outhouse holes handle waste out of sight, special precautions are needed when maintaining them:

  • Never enter an outhouse hole – deadly gasses and oxygen deprivation make hole entry extremely hazardous.

  • Follow the pumping schedule – don‘t allow hole to overfill and risk overflow onto ground.

  • Ventilate hole properly to prevent dangerous methane or hydrogen sulfide gas buildup.

  • Use personal protective equipment like gloves, boots, protective clothing and respiratory gear when working around waste material.

  • Wash hands thoroughly with soap after any outhouse maintenance.

Outhouse holes perform an essential but dirty task. Take appropriate precautions and your hole will work well for years!

So there you have it, my friend! Everything you need to know to choose, dig, maintain and manage your outhouse hole. Follow this advice and your outdoor bathroom will provide safe, efficient, eco-friendly waste disposal for your family or guests. Let me know if you have any other questions!

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