Hey there! If you‘re embarking on a kitchen remodel project and considering painted cabinets, choosing the right plywood is one of the most critical steps. The wrong plywood could lead to an uneven finish or worse – peeling and cracked paint down the road.
But have no fear! In this comprehensive guide, I‘ll walk you through everything you need to know to select the perfect plywood for durable, professional-looking painted cabinets. With the right techniques, you can achieve a smooth, flawless finish that looks like you hired an expert cabinet painter.
I‘ve been renovating homes for over 10 years, and I‘m going to share all my tips so you can avoid beginner mistakes. You‘ll learn:
Let‘s get started!
Choosing the Best Plywood Material
First, let‘s review the most common plywood materials used for cabinet boxes and doors and how they compare for finishes:
Plywood
Plywood is made by gluing together thin sheets of wood veneer in alternating grains. This cross-directional construction minimizes expansion and warping.
Pros:
- Resists warping better than MDF or particleboard
- Veneer core is strongest option
Cons:
- Surface imperfections can telegraph through paint
- Edges prone to splintering
Overall, it‘s a good option if you choose cabinet-grade plywood with smooth veneers.
MDF
MDF (medium density fiberboard) is made from finely crushed wood fibers mixed with adhesive and pressed into panels.
Pros:
- Extremely smooth, consistent surface
- Won‘t show wood grain or veneer seams
Cons:
- Can swell if exposed to moisture
- Heavy material requires robust cabinet frameworks
MDF is ideal for painted cabinets thanks to its ultra-smooth surface.
Particleboard
Particleboard is manufactured from wood chips, sawdust and synthetic resin glues. It is the most budget-friendly option.
Pros:
- Lowest cost material
Cons:
- Prone to expansion from moisture absorption
- Lower screw-holding strength than plywood or MDF
- Joints and seams more visible after painting
I recommend avoiding particleboard if possible. While cheaper initially, you may end up with cracked paint finish from material expansion down the road.
My Top Pick
For painted cabinets, I recommend using MDF whenever budget allows. The ultra-smooth surface gives the best foundation for long-lasting painted finishes.
Though more expensive, cabinet-grade MDF with 5-7 plies will prevent swelling or sagging issues over time.
High-quality plywood is also a good option if you select veneers with minimal surface defects and take steps to properly seal the edges.
Plywood Grades – What Do They Mean?
If you opt for plywood cabinets, it‘s important to understand veneer grades. Higher grades have fewer defects and more attractive, durable wood surface veneers.
A Grade
This premium grade has the least flaws and most decorative veneer species like maple, cherry and oak. Best for stained or clear-coated cabinets.
B Grade
Slightly more blemishes than A grade but ideal for painted finishes since marks are concealed. Good veneer wood choices like birch, poplar, maple.
C Grade
Economy grade allows some knots, mineral streaks and pinholes that could telegraph through paint. Only use for low-visibility areas.
D Grade
Most economical option with highest number of surface defects. Should only be used when covered by overlays or frames.
For painted cabinetry, I recommend B grade plywood for the optimal balance of quality and cost-effectiveness. The veneers still have minimal flaws but are more affordable than premium A grade material.
C or D grades can technically work for painting but have higher risk of visible imperfections showing through the finish. Always inspect samples thoroughly before purchasing.
How Thick Should Your Plywood Be?
Proper plywood thickness is important to prevent sagging or warping. Here are the recommendations:
Boxes
Use 3⁄4” plywood for sides, tops, bottoms and fixed shelves. This provides necessary rigidity for the cabinet structure.
Doors
Doors can be slightly thinner at 1⁄2” to 5⁄8” to reduce weight, while still offering stability for painted finishes.
Backs
Since cabinet backs don’t need structural strength, 1⁄4” plywood usually suffices.
For large cabinets or especially heavy countertops, consider using 1" plywood reinforcements at bottom edges for added support.
Keep in mind that thinner 1⁄2” plywood on its own can risk warping. Make sure to integrate cabinetry reinforcement techniques:
- Corner blocking
- Edge banding
- Cross bracing on larger units
- Rails and stiles for door framing
Protecting Against Moisture Damage
Since cabinets live in humid kitchens, take precautions to prevent plywood edges from absorbing moisture and swelling unevenly:
Use exterior glue – Seek out plywoods made with moisture-resistant polyurethane or resorcinol glues. Some good brands are Purebond and Columbia Forest Products.
Seal edges – Prime and paint all cut plywood edges to seal the end grain. For extra protection, I recommend also coating edges with wood sealant or varnish prior to priming.
Allow to acclimate – Before installation, let plywood panels sit in your home for 72 hours to adjust to the interior humidity level.
According to a study by Cooking Environment Research, relative humidity in kitchens averages 55% but can spike as high as 70-80% when showering or boiling water.
Properly sealing the plywood edges and using exterior grade wood glues or adhesives will provide the best defense against moisture issues down the road. Check manufacturer documentation to confirm moisture-resistant construction.
Prepping Plywood for an Ultra-Smooth Finish
Achieving a pore-free painted finish requires careful surface prep and sanding:
Sand Thoroughly
Use 220 grit sandpaper to lightly smooth plywood prior to priming. This removes any raised grain or defects.
Always sand in the direction of the wood grain – never across it.
Apply Wood Conditioner
Wood conditioners like Minwax Pre-Stain minimize grain visibility by sealing the wood pores before painting. Allow to fully cure per the label directions.
Clean Surface
Use a tack cloth to remove any dust before priming and painting. Oils from hands can also impede paint adhesion, so wear gloves when handling.
Prime with a High Build Primer
Quality primers like Zinsser BIN Shellac-Base even out the plywood surface and can be sanded smooth after drying.
Sand Again After Priming
Gently sand again with 320 grit sandpaper to erase any remaining grain texture or flaws before the final paint coats.
Apply Paint Finish
I recommend using fine-tipped paint brushes and high quality cabinet paint or enamel, which levels better than latex wall paints. Take your time with brush application for flawless results.
Proper plywood sanding, grain filling and priming are vital steps in achieving that ultra-smooth, glass-like painted finish. Don‘t rush through it!
Economical Plywood Options for Painted Cabinets
Quality plywood made for cabinets can be expensive. Here are some of my tips for reducing material costs:
1. Choose B-grade pine
Opt for B-grade pine plywood instead of pricier maple or oak. Softwoods like pine have slightly more pronounced grain but finish well with proper prep and primer.
2. Consider veneer core plywood
These have a veneer back instead of a solid inner ply. Just avoid the thinnest 1/8” veneers that could show imperfections.
3. Use 1/4" plywood for cabinet backs and non-structural components
Backs and sides of corner cabinets can utilize thinner 1/4” plywood to save costs.
4. Buy pre-finished sides
Pre-finished plywood with completed finish coats on one face reduces labor time and materials for painting.
5. Use iron-on edge banding instead of solid wood banding
Veneer edge tape offers an affordable way to cover exposed plywood edges. Choose heat-activated tape for the most durable finish.
6. Reserve premium plywood for visible areas
On cabinet internals or garage storage units, you can likely get by with lower C/D grade plywood since it won’t be seen.
With the right strategies, you can build gorgeous painted cabinets on a reasonable budget. Proper prep and priming will allow even B/C grade boards to look great.
Step-By-Step: Prepping & Priming Cabinets
Achieving flawless painted finishes requires meticulous prep and priming. Here is my tried-and-true process:
1. Repair any moisture damage
If cabinet edges show signs swelling, sand smooth and re-seal prior to priming.
2. Final sand installed cabinets
Once fully assembled, do a final 320 grit sanding to ensure surfaces are ready for paint.
3. Clean and degrease
Remove dirt, oils and dust using a deglosser, vinegar solution or TSP substitute cleaner.
4. Fill seams and holes
Use painter‘s caulk to fill any gaps, cracks or misaligned joints for a seamless appearance. Allow to fully cure before priming.
5. Spot prime repairs
For wood putty or caulk patches, apply primer only in those areas first to seal before doing full prime coat.
6. Coat with cabinet primer
Quality primers like Zinsser BIN Shellac-Base will smooth the plywood grain and properly prepare the surface for your paint finish.
7. Lightly sand primed cabinets
Once fully cured, do a final sanding with 320 grit paper to remove any remaining dust nibs or texture irregularities.
8. Tack cloth cabinets
Use a tack cloth to remove all dust before applying your first coat of cabinet paint.
Take time with the prep steps and you‘ll be rewarded with a smooth, professional painted finish!
Finishing Cabinet Edges Like an Expert
For a seamless, built-in look, finishing plywood edges is an important final touch. Here‘s how I recommend doing it:
Option 1 – Hardwood Edge Banding
Applying thin solid wood edge banding offers the most integrated finish. Use an edge banding machine for a super flush trim.
Option 2 – Iron-On Veneer Tape
Self-adhesive wood veneer edge tapes save time and money. Choose heat-activated tape for the strongest bond.
For both methods:
- Finish edges BEFORE assembly when possible
- Choose durable species like poplar or maple
- Fill gaps with paintable caulk for invisible seams
- Ease corners gently with sandpaper to prevent peeling
- Seal edges thoroughly with primer and paint
There you have it – my complete guide to choosing and preparing plywood for flawless, professional-looking painted cabinets.
I hope these tips help you avoid frustrations and end up with your dream kitchen. Just take it slow and steady. Rushing any steps usually leads to cut corners and poor results.
If you have any other questions come up along the way, don‘t hesitate to reach out! I‘m always happy to help a fellow DIYer.
