Hey there! If you‘re looking to switch over from wood floors to tile in your home, you‘ve come to the right place. As a home improvement expert who has remodeled dozens of homes over the years, I‘ve tackled my fair share of wood to tile transitions. I‘m excited to share everything I‘ve learned to help you completely transform the look and feel of your rooms with stunning new tile.
Why Go for Tile Over Wood?
I know you‘re probably wondering—if you already have nice wood flooring installed, why go through the hassle of putting in tile instead? There‘s a few great reasons to consider switching over:
- Durability: Tile is practically indestructible. Wood eventually shows scratches, dents, and wear over time. Properly installed tile can last 50-100 years.
- Water resistance: Tile is impervious to water damage from spills, flooding, steam, etc. Wood can warp and deteriorate when exposed to moisture.
- Ease of cleaning: Tile‘s hard, nonporous surface can be easily cleaned using mops, steamers, and cleaners that would damage wood.
- Style: Tile comes in a nearly endless array of colors, patterns, shapes and textures. It allows you to make a bold style statement.
- Resale value: Tile floors are highly sought after by buyers. They increase monetary value more than wood.
If any of these benefits appeal to you, read on! I‘ll walk you step-by-step through how to remove the existing floors and install stunning tile.
Step 1: Prepare the Subfloor
The key to a successful tile installation is proper subfloor prep. Your new tile can only be as strong and durable as the base it‘s adhered to.
Start by completely removing any wood flooring in the room down to the lowest subfloor layer. Take out all remaining nails, screws, adhesives and underlayments. You want to expose the structural subfloor surface.
With the subfloor visible, inspect it carefully. Tap boards with a hammer to check for hollow sounds indicating damage. Look for any cracking, crumbling, rotting or delamination. Water stains or mold growth are red flags of moisture damage.
Use a long straightedge or level to check for flatness across joists. If there are dips or humps over 1/8 inch, they must be corrected before tiling. Mark any problem areas to go back and address later.
Vacuum thoroughly to remove all dirt, debris and sawdust. This prevents contamination that could compromise the tile bonding.
If there are minor subfloor imperfections or damages, there are several fixes:
- Loose boards: Refasten with wood screws into joists.
- Squeaky boards: Drive shims into gaps before re-screwing.
- Raised edges/gaps: Sand or plane down protruding areas.
- Mold/mildew growth: Kill spores with bleach solution, let dry fully.
For more extensive issues like deteriorated boards or major unevenness, partial or full subfloor replacement may be needed. Consult a contractor if you have concerns about structural integrity.
Always check moisture content in the subfloor with a meter, ideally below 12%. High moisture needs to be remedied before tiling. I‘ll go over how to do that next.
Step 2: Moisture Proofing Essentials
Moisture and wood don‘t mix well! Since your new tile will be surrounded by existing wood flooring, preventing moisture-related issues is crucial.
Start by sealing the exposed subfloor surface with water-based polyurethane wood sealant. Apply 2-3 coats, allowing 2 hours of drying time between coats. This creates a moisture barrier to prevent swelling and cupping of boards when the tile is later bonded to them.
If there are signs of previous water damage or you just want to play it safe, install a layer of 4-6 mil polyethylene plastic sheeting. Overlap seams by 6 inches and seal with moisture resistant tape. This adds further waterproofing insurance beneath the tile.
Use acrylic caulk to seal any gaps or penetrations where moisture could infiltrate, like around pipes or edges. Let the caulk fully cure for 6-8 hours before the next steps.
With proper sealing and prep, you can install tile over a wood subfloor with total peace of mind!
Step 3: Build Up the Subfloor
Now that the subfloor is prepped and sealed, the next step is getting it ready for tile by installing cement board and/or self-leveling underlayment.
Cement board, also called cement backerboard, is made of concrete reinforced with fiberglass mesh. It provides a super stable, crack-resistant surface for tile. Many tile manufacturers actually require cement board under their warranties.
Start by marking the subfloor with framing chalk lines to guide the layout. Then screw or nail 1/4" or 1/2" cement board sheets in place, with a 1/8” gap between boards. Use ceramic-coated backerboard screws placed every 8 inches across boards.
Fill seams with fiberglass mesh tape and latex-modified thinset mortar. This creates a continuous flat surface. Allow to fully cure for 24 hours before tiling.
If your subfloor is mostly even with just minor dips or flaws, a great shortcut is using self-leveling underlayment instead of or in addition cement board.
Self-leveling underlayment is a pourable compound that flows out and dries into a smooth, flat durable surface for tile. Simply mix, pour, and spread across the floor per package directions. It dries fast, within just a few hours.
Combined, cement backerboard and self-leveling underlayment give you the ideal subfloor for long-lasting tile floors!
Step 4: Laying Out Your Tile
Now for the fun part—picking out spectacular tile and laying out your pattern!
Browse tile showrooms and shops until you find the perfect tile for your project. Keep in mind factors like:
- Style – Choose classic subway tile, mosaics, natural stone, or modern styles.
- Color/finish – Matte, gloss, bold colors or neutral shades. Samples help visualize.
- Size – Smaller tiles make spaces feel larger, oversized tile does opposite.
- Pattern – Grid, herringbone, mosaic, or single direction.
- Grout color – Contrasting or matching shade.
Once you‘ve got your materials, draw up a measured layout plan. Chalk reference gridlines on the floor and start in the center with the focus area. Use plastic tile spacers for consistent 1/8-1/4” spacing between tiles.
This allows room for adhesive and grout. Cut edge and border tiles with a wet saw for a precise fit.
Check edges every 2-3 rows with a level, and make adjustments to keep everything aligned.
Slow and steady wins the race—don’t rush the layout! Listen to music or podcasts while you work to make the time go by faster.
Step 5: Set Tiles in Adhesive Bed
With the layout complete, it’s time to permanently set the tiles in place. For optimal bonding strength, always use a specialized thinset mortar adhesive.
Plan to tile in smaller sections of around 30 sq ft so the thinset mortar doesn‘t dry out before tiles are set. Using a notched trowel, apply a 1/4” thick layer according to package directions.
Firmly press tiles into the mortar, twisting to collapse the trowel ridges. Use a rubber grouting float or mallet to fully seat each tile and get at least 95% mortar contact.
Around the perimeter and corners, leave at least 1/8” space between tile and walls/cabinets. This allows for natural expansion and contraction of tile without cracking.
Let the thinset cure fully, about 24-48 hours, before grouting. Going slowly leads to increased satisfaction with the final results.
Step 6: Grouting and Finishing
Grout fills the spaces between tiles, finishing off your floor and creating a unified appearance.
Choose either sanded or unsanded grout based on the tile spacing. Carefully force it down fully into joints with a float, removing excess as you go. Buff any remaining residue off the tile faces with a soft cloth.
Expect grouting to take about 90 minutes per 30 sq ft section. Don’t rush—let it dry partially between wiping to reduce risk of pulling grout back out.
Once fully dry after 72 hours, seal the grout lines with a penetrating sealer to prevent staining and damage. Then you can walk freely on your tile without worry!
Add finishing touches like threshold transitions between rooms and trim pieces along edges and corners. Step back and admire your beautiful, brand new tiled space!
Pros and Cons of Tile Flooring
Now that you know all about installing tile, let’s quickly run through some of the key pros and cons:
Pros
- Extremely durable and long-lasting
- Easy to keep clean
- Resists water, stains, and scratches
- Works in bathrooms, kitchens, and high-traffic areas
- Comes in endless design and style options
- Increased monetary value for resale
Cons
- Can be prone to cracks if subfloor shifts
- Dropped glassware and objects may break or chip tile
- Can feel cold and hard underfoot without radiant heat
- Grout lines can get dirty without proper sealing
- Professional installation best for complex designs
As long as it’s properly installed over a stable subfloor, tile remains one of the best flooring options in terms of durability, longevity, and style.
Wrapping Up
I hope all the tips I’ve shared will help make your project go smoothly as you transition from wood to tile. Remodeling always involves a little bit of dust and mess, but the results are so worth it!
Focus on meticulous subfloor prep, take your time with layout, and don’t cut corners. Do it right from start to finish by following the steps I’ve outlined, and you’ll have an incredible new tile floor you can enjoy for decades.
Let me know if any other questions come up as you get started! I’m always happy to offer advice or suggestions. I want you to love how your new tiled space turns out.
